Press
Definitely Leave Room for Dessert at Joe Pesce....September 7, 2008
Joe Tucker is 42 and has been cooking since he was old enough to see over the edge of the stove. That gave the co-owner of the new Joe Pesce restaurant in Collingswood 30 years to establish his taste -- and he knows what he likes.
Tucker wants the world, or at least a major part of South Jersey, to sample some of his creations, too. The self-proclaimed "South Philly guy" goes out of his way to have customers start and end at Joe Pesce on high notes. As for the in-between, judging from the originality on the varied menu, there's hardly any chance for diners to go awry. Tucker envisions a restaurant complete with "a family experience, where people would feel right at home, but still experience a dynamite night out."
General manager Chris Grasso works the front of the room like a long-lost best friend. Come on in. Grab a chair. Relax. Been here before? We had never met Grasso and after one meal here I feel as if I've known him all my life. Do try the grilled romaine salad, a creation Grasso annoints "one of our signature dishes."
Says Tucker, "The romaine dish is something I created, because it contains everything I love."
It's designed to satisfy three or four people, hence the pricey $24 tag. Still, it's easy to see and taste why. The grilled half head of romaine is piled high with the sweetest colossal crab meat and firm jumbo shrimp.
Yet, it's the warm, mellow Caesar dressing made "Joe Pesce style" with egg whites, garlic and a mere hint of anchovy, among other secret things, that sells the appetizer. Never mind that it's not easy to cut warm romaine. Your taste buds will thank you.
Standards remain high with a zuppa de Pesce ($14) of clams, mussels and a colossal shrimp in a bright tomato sauce made to order. Knock-out toasted bread from Liscio's in Glassboro seals the deal.
Joe Pesce is a handsome contemporary BYOB establishment with lots of windows that look out onto Collingswood's tony main street, where 20 outdoor lovers can dine on a shady corner; it seats 38 inside, including four seats for those who count sitting at a counter among their dining pleasures. Snow-white chairs, tables with stylish butcher block-type tops and royal blue water glasses particularly jump out at you. Tropical-style paddle fans move air overhead while an efficient staff moves inviting food such as the unusual combo of short ribs and scallops ($28). Another popular attraction is the sea grille of scallops, lobster tail and shrimp ($29) drizzled with olive oil and lemon with arugula, roasted peppers and Kalamata olives for those who want to eat a little lighter.
Yet, above all, it's pesce -- fish. Tucker goes out of his way to make sure there are five or six different fish in either whole or fillet form on the nightly menu. It could be red snapper, bronzino, sea bass, pompano, Dover sole, rainbow trout or tilapia; it's whatever's available at the market that day. Customers can match their fish with Sicilian, scampi or Mediterranean sauces.
The Monday night we visit, one of the finny specials is donado, a close relative of mahi-mahi, on the menu at $34.95. I'm sold. Grasso insists it pairs best with the scampi sauce, and my palate says he's absolutely right. An exceptional sauce of white wine, lemon butter, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and capers holds its own, but doesn't stampede over the delicate flavor of the firm, white fish, which is brushed with oil and herbs, grilled, then finished in the oven. It's both robust and elegant.
Like Edward Scissorhands with spoons, Grasso deftly debones it tableside. I discover only one bone during the feasting, but be aware that he leaves the fish's tail and head on your platter, a sight some diners might not prefer. My date's generous grilled lamb chops ($29) arrive medium-rare, as ordered, and drip juice with each cut, staining but making even better a foundation of dense yet superior mashed potatoes. Al dente asparagus balances the dish nicely.
Desserts are truly special. Tucker says he scoured far and wide for the confections. "I went searching for the best signature desserts I could find," he confesses. "Then, I kept only four."
When the search was over, he stayed with carrot cake, Key lime pie, a seven-layer chocolate cake and a chocolate lava cake served warm. My pungent Key lime pie ($8) in moist graham cracker crust is a fine ending, smooth and creamy and grand when dabbled with the ultra-rich raspberry or vanilla sauces or the dollop of whipped cream.
Tributes, though, go to the seven-layer carrot cake ($8) you'll insist was made in someone's kitchen in South Jersey. The monster wedge of moist yet cakey perfection that even looks homemade is imported from somewhere outside the area, but Tucker insists on keeping it a secret. Thick mouth-watering cream cheese icing makes this choice the real thing.
You'd be wise to call ahead at Joe Pesce, especially on weekends when the little eatery fills, and to bring a nice chunk of change or plastic. Our check tops $133, not including a fair tip for attentive service during a fun night out.
Bill Reinhardt is a veteran restaurant critic. He has worked for the Courier-Post for 39 years and is currently an editor in the Features Department. Reach him at (856) 486-2439 or breinhardt@courierpostonline.com
